Birgu, the ancient maritime city that is proud of its title ‘Citta Vittoriosa’, is packed with history, artistic and architectural splendour. As you wander down its fascinating winding streets, layers of different cultures unfold, stretching from the Roman period, to the medieval overlords in the strong castle at Fort St Angelo, to the glorious Knights’ period. Having made Birgu its base when the mighty Order of St John took over Malta in 1530, Birgu as the home of the Knights, was the pride of Europe after its victory in the savage Great Siege of 1565, now immortalised by best-selling historical novels like “The Sword and the Scimitar” by David Ball, “Blood Rock” by James Jackson and “The Religion” by Tim Willocks.
Strolling along this walled city surrounded by mighty fortifications, memories of its past haunt the visitor, though the present city is full of life, thanks to its magnificent churches, band clubs, bars, taverns and top restaurants set among the residences of a proud but humble city.
Birgu’s ‘Castrum Maris’ or Castle by the Sea, was for a time the centre of Maltese civil, religious and social life, especially during the Knights’ period when important institutions in Birgu dominated Maltese society. These included the old hospital of the Order built in 1534, now the residence of the cloistered nuns of St Benedict. The rebuilt Church of the Dominicans, the Conventual Church of St Lawrence, as well as the unique Inquisitors’ Palace are all worth visiting, especially as the Oratory of St. Lawrence proudly holds the hat and sword of Jean de Vallette, the heroic Grand Master who led the Knights of St. John to victory during the Great Siege.
The Inquisitor’s Palace was the seat of the Inquisition in Malta from 1571 to 1798, complete with its own chapel, library and dungeons, and is the only palace related to the Inquisition in the world that has survived and is open to the public. It has been superbly restored and is now a museum of the Inquisition in Malta and religious tradition, including historic reconstructions of the domestic kitchen areas and the Inquisitors’ private quarters.
The knights’ palaces or ‘Auberges’, added to the grandeur of Birgu, particularly the Auberge d’ Angleterre and the Auberge de France, presently the seat of the Birgu Local Council. Thought to have been designed and embellished by the great medieval architect Bartolomeo Genga, this magnificent Auberge has now been restored to its former grandeur.
Birgu’s characteristic town square is the hub of the town and wonderful spot to linger over a coffee, before setting off to explore the surrounding winding streets, to take in the architectural features that once adorned most of the island. Notice the coloured doors, the iconic balconies and the old signs that still hang on many walls. Make your way to the Norman House, a 13th-century house which has been renovated and restored to its former glory, and while there make sure to look out for all the tiny details, including wall etchings (graffiti) of galleons and a Christ carrying the cross.
The restored waterfront flanks the ‘ Marina Grande’ as the Knights called it, a famous shipyard dating back to the Middle Ages. With the coming of the Knights in 1530 maritime activities increased, and in fact in the 17th century it was considered one of the finest shipyards in the Mediterranean. This made it the ideal spot for Malta’s Maritime Museum located in the converted Naval Bakery and displaying a rich collection of items related to Malta’s seafaring past. The Maritime Museum is Malta’s largest and oldest industrialised building on the island. In addition to over 60 full-size traditional Maltese boats, you can see paintings, weapons, uniforms, anchors, maps and models dating from 1530 to 1798 as well as the largest Roman lead anchor in the world, weighing in at a staggering 4 tonnes.
Birgu’s restoration efforts are now focused on its fascinating Collachio – the area that had been reserved for the sole use of the knights – and the bastion known as the Post of Castille which is shown in frescoes of the magnificent Sala del Gran Consiglio at the President’s Palace in Valletta. The massive restoration of Fort St Angelo at the tip of the Birgu promontory marks a new era for this ancient city and its surroundings.
The miraculous rebirth of Birgu can only be appreciated if one knows of the destruction that the Three Cities – Birgu, Bormla and Senglea suffered during the Second World War (1939-1945). Reduced to a rubble wasteland of bombed houses, churches and palaces, it seemed impossible that the area could ever recover.
In spite of this terrible time, Birgu has lived up to its proud title of Citta Vittoriosa and has risen from its ashes to become once again a city that draws people to its vibrant shores.
By Lino Bugeja
BIRGU FACTS:
Population : 2633
Local council : Head Office, Couvre Porte Street, Vittoriosa BRG 1810, Phone: +356 2165 0165
Public Transport : Birgu can be reached by bus (link below) or by ferry from Valletta harbour, by the Upper Barrakka lift.
BIRGU ATTRACTIONS:
– Dominican Church
– Inquisitors’ Palace (Monday to Sunday: 9.00-17.0,0 Last admission: 16.30 Closed: 24, 25 & 31 December, 1 January, Good Friday)
– Church of St Lawrence
– Oratory of St. Lawrence
– Norman House
– Maritime Museum (Monday to Sunday: 9.00-17.00, Last admission: 16.30)
– Fort St Angelo (Monday to Sunday: 9.00-17.00, Last admission: 16.30 Closed: 24, 25 & 31 December, 1 January, Good Friday))
Birgu waterfront and yacht marina runs between the Maritime Museum and Fort St Angelo. It has been restored and offers a waterfront promenade and several seafront restaurants where one can enjoy the view of Senglea across the water.
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