St John’s Co-Cathedral

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St John’s was built by Grand Master Jean de la Cassière between 1573 and 1578, as the Conventual Church of the Order of the Knights Hospitaller of St John. The church, built in the heart of Valetta as a sign of its importance, was designed by the Maltese military architect Girolamo Cassar who designed several of the prominent buildings in Valletta, and is considered one of the world’s great cathedrals.

The Mannerist, almost fortified exterior of the Cathedral befits an Order that has just emerged from the Great Siege of 1565. The façade is flanked by two towers, on the right are three clocks – showing the time, day of the week and date. In the middle massive Tuscan columns support a balcony from which the newly-elected grand-master was announced, accompanied by a shower of gold coins.

Be prepared to be overwhelmed as you step inside – in contrast to its austere façade, the exuberant and lavish baroque interior shows the Knights’ appreciation and patronage of culture and the arts. St John’s Co-Cathedral was very bare until Grand Master Raphael Cotoner ordered the redecoration of the church to rival the churches of Rome. Mattia Preti was commissioned to decorate the barrel-vaulted ceiling with wall-paintings depicting the life of St John the Baptist – the figures painted next to each column initially appear to be three-dimensional statues, but the illusion of three-dimensionality was created using shadows and placement. Preti also designed the sculptural reliefs which were not as usual carved independently and then attached to the walls (stucco) but hand-carved in stone directly into the walls of St John’s Cathedral and gilded in 24 carat gold.
The Knights were expected to donate expensive gifts as they progressed through the ranks, and these were often contributions to enrich the church with outstanding works of art. In 1689, during the Grandmastership of Gregorio Caraffa, a new high altar was installed, a perfect example of fine Baroque art consisting of the finest marbles, splendid gilded bronze work, semi-precious stones and lapis lazuli. Behind the altar, a larger than life size white sculptural group in Carrara marble by Giuseppe Mazzuoli represents St John baptising Christ.

The wide main nave is carpeted by almost 400 inlaid marble tombstones of the sons of Europe’s noble families from the 16th to 18th centuries. Each tombstone is intricately inlaid with precious coloured marbles depicting symbols and a Latin inscription proclaiming the merits of the knight –read more here.

The Order was divided into eight ‘Langues’ or language divisions – Provence, France, Auvergne, Italy, Castille, Aragon (including Catalonia and Navarre), England and Germany – and each Langue was given its own side-chapel, which ensured that they would compete to produce the grandest result. The chapels were assigned to the various Langues according to seniority so the French, Italian and Aragonese Langues, being prominent, were placed closest to the altar.

Every chapel is dedicated to a saint related to that langue and each chapel is unique with its own style and art treasures. The Chapel of the Langue of Italy is dominated by Mattia Preti’s alterpiece ‘The Mystic Marriage of St Catherine’ (1670) and ‘St Jerome Writing’ by Caravaggio – a copy, as the original is housed inside the security of the oratory. The chapel of the Langue of Italy represents a fine example of Baroque harmony were architecture, paintings and sculpture blend together.

Dedicated to ‘The Conversion of St Paul’ the main altarpiece and lunettes of the Chapel of the Langue of France, are by Mattia Pretia. The chapel of the Langue of France looks different to the rest as it was re-decorated in the 1830s when the British administration commissioned the Nazerener George Hyzler (1787-1858) to transform this high Baroque opulent church into a plain and simple decorative one. The chapel holds four monuments, including that of the Vicomte de Beaujolais, the brother of King Louis Phillipe of France who died of TB while in Malta in 1808.

Continue through to the Chapel of the Langue of Provence dedicated to St. Michael while that of The Anglo-Bavarian Langue, is dedicated to Saint Charles Borromeo. The chapel originally contained many of the Order’s relics, but these were removed when the French took Malta in 1798. A staircase leads to St John’s Co-Cathedral crypt, excavated beneath the altar and containing the remains of Grand Masters that ruled Malta between 1530 and 1623 including the hero of the Great Siege, Jean Parisot de Valette.

The Chapel of the Langue of Germany, dedicated to the Epiphany of Christ boasts a gilt stone altar typical of the earliest years of Mattia Preti’s Baroque influence. Ironically enough, the only part of St John’s Cathedral to be badly damaged by Luftwaffe bombing during WWII was the German Chapel!
The Chapel of Castile, Leon and Portugal is dedicated to St James with an altarpiece by Mattia Preti and two magnificent mausolea, to Grand Master Manoel de Vilhena and Grand Master Pinto. This majestic bronze and marble monument showing architects presenting the plan of Fort Manoel to GM Vilhena is the most complete Rococo monument in the church. The altar tabernacle door consists of an icon which was donated by Christian slaves captured by the Turkish fleet who mutinied and succeeded in sailing the ship back to Malta.
The Chapel of Aragon, including the priories of Catalunia and Navarre, is dedicated to St George. It is one of the most richly embellished chapels in the church. The altar painting of St George on Horseback is one of Mattia Preti’s finest works.
The Chapel of the Langue of Auvergne is notable for its altarpiece dedicated to St. Sebastian, an interesting work of art caught between Mannerism and Caravaggism, flanked by massive Solominic columns.

The Chapel of Our Lady of Philermos with its rich decoration and fine works of art, was one of the most important chapels for the Knights as this is where the icon of the Madonna of Philermos was kept. This icon was believed to be miraculous and had been in the possession of the Order since the Knights were in Jerusalem. Before battle this were the Knights prayed and when victorious the key of the fortresses captured would be presented to the Virgin where they still hang to this day. Amongst them are the keys of the castles of Lepanto and Patras. The chapel is screened off by a Silver Gate.

The St John’s Oratory was built as a place of devotion for young novices and is home to one of the greatest paintings in Europe – Caravaggio’s ‘Beheading of St John the Baptist’ and another Caravaggio masterpiece, ‘St Jerome Writing’ which has been called ‘the painting of the 17th century’ by art critics. The heavily gilt carvings of the ceiling and portraits of founders of the Order and saints are outshone by the fine Ciro Ferri bronze tondo affixed to the front of the altar, and the marble head of St John the Baptist presented on an elaborate gilt scallop shell.

The Oratory leads to the Museum of St John’s Co-Cathedral which displays exhibits related to the history of the Conventual Church. It was established in 1968 and holds an important collection of silverware, paintings, choral books, sacred vestments. The main exhibits are a set of 29 Flemish tapestries donated to the Conventual Church by Grand Master Ramon Perellos.

St John’s Conventual Church became a Cathedral when Napoleon expelled the Order of St John from Malta in 1798 and it was raised to a status equal to that of St Paul’s Cathedral in Mdina – the official seat of the Archbishop of Malta – by a papal decree of 1816, hence the term ‘co-cathedral’.

Entering the Cathedral in the past must have seemed like stepping into a jewel-box, with its gold and precious decorations glittering in the candlelight and the Cathedral remains is a jewel of art, architecture and history!

Visitors should dress appropriately for a house of worship. Stiletto heels are not permitted, to protect the marble floor.

Opening Times
Monday to Friday: 09.30hrs to 16.30hrs (last admission at 16.00hrs)
Saturday: 09.30hrs to 12.30hrs (last admission at 12.00hrs)
Closed on Sunday and Public Holidays.

People visiting the cathedral for Mass only do not have to pay the entrance fee
Entrance Fees
• Adults: €10.00
• Seniors: €7.50
• Children under 12: Free (when accompanied by an adult)
• Students: €7.50

Please note
• St John’s is a place of worship. Please enter decently dressed. Shawls / wraps are provided at the entrance.
• Stiletto heels and narrow heeled shoes are not permitted on the inlaid marble floor. Slippers can be purchased at €1.20 per pair.
• Backpacks are to be carried in front of you.
• Photography is allowed in the church but the use of flash is forbidden.
• Photography is not allowed in the Oratory and Museum.

-> About Caravaggio

-> about art in the cathedral

Caption: In the heart of Valetta, this 440 years old cathedral is place to visit absolutely. Known in Europe for its baroque style, it’s one of the most visited places in Malta.

References:
https://web.archive.org/web/20150922174339/http://www.vallettapianofest.com/-stjohn-co-caphedral.html

https://web.archive.org/web/20151016161333/http://www.independent.com.mt/articles/2015-09-04/local-news/Restoration-work-on-central-part-of-facade-of-St-John-s-Co-Cathedral-in-Valletta-complete-6736141610