The Victoria Lines

Array

The Victoria Lines are a network of fortifications built by the British Armed Forces during the second half of the 19th century consisting of a number of different elements: forts, batteries, entrenchments, searchlight emplacements and howitzer positions, all connected by a continuous infantry line. They were strategically built on the edge of Malta’s Great Fault and span across the whole width of the island; some 12 kilometres from Fomm ir-Riħ in the west to Madliena in the east.

The defining element within the Victoria Lines is the infantry wall. This follows the configuration of the crest of the ridge along the Great Fault but was generally built just beneath it, to make it less conspicuous from below. The long stretches of infantry wall generally consist of a simple masonry parapet, with an average height of 1.5 metres. As such, the defensive wall may appear low when viewed from behind but being on high ground, it still overlooks anyone approaching from below.

The infantry wall was constructed primarily using stone quarried on site. Parts of the hillside, beneath the lines, were dug up to make them steeper and, in some instances, the resulting rubble was dumped in such a way as to form an additional obstacle.

The nature of the infantry line varies along its length but in most places it consists of a sandwich-type construction with outer and inner retaining walls, with rubble-fill in between and topped by a capstone. The outer shell was finished to a smooth surface to make it more difficult for an enemy soldier to scale the wall whereas the inner shell was often left rough. The construction of other parts of the infantry wall in those areas which were the least accessible from below, tended to be more rudimentary.

In various places, although not throughout its length, the wall was surmounted by a series of musketry loopholes. These took the form of horizontal slabs placed in such a way that a space was left between the two slabs supporting them through which the soldiers could fire their rifles. Unfortunately, almost all of these have since disappeared.

For example, photos taken when the Victoria Lines were still in use show that the infantry wall in what is now Ġnien l-Għarusa tal-Mosta had musketry loopholes. However, only a very short stretch of the original musketry loopholes is still extant, in the vicinity of Fort Mosta.

In 1997 a longer stretch of the loopholes were reconstructed next to the remaining ones. The intention was good but its execution left much to be desired. In the absence of an adequate structure to provide proper direction and supervision, machine-cut stones were used which contrast with the original hand-cut stones. However, from a distance, they do provide an idea of what the original infantry wall with its loopholes in place looked like.

The infantry line is at its most spectacular where it crosses a number of valleys. These were bridged over by means of so-called stop-walls intended to facilitate access by the soldiers defending these positions from one side of the valley to the other, and provide them with adequate cover from behind while firing at the enemy.

The Victoria Lines were never put to the ultimate test of an enemy invasion, and their military significance began to fade even before World War I. Nevertheless, they still provide a fascinating insight into the development of fortifications in the 19th century and, as such, form an intrinsic part of Malta’s historical heritage.

What defines the Victoria Lines is the combination of natural features and man-made structures to create a linear defensive barrier that cuts across the whole width of the island

It has now been many years that the Victoria Lines have lain abandoned and time has taken its toll. Surprisingly perhaps, quite a few stretches are still in good condition but there are also places where parts of the wall have collapsed and there is even a tract which has disappeared altogether, eaten away by a quarry. Nevertheless, a walk along those parts of the Victoria Lines that are accessible is still a most rewarding experience.

The Victoria Lines provide some of the best vantage points from where to discover the Maltese countryside and have themselves become a striking feature within the landscape on which they have at times a most dramatic effect. A walk along the Victoria Lines is a unique experience which reveals the stunning beauty of Malta’s natural landscapes, offering breathtaking views for miles around.

Ray Cachia Zammit

This article first appeared in the Sunday Times of Malta, Sunday, April 28, 2019